Written By Sam Martin
Several weeks ago I ventured across to Cancun to take my first official surf lesson!!! Yes!!! The great Bucketlist adventure is underway. I left the house feeling excited, a little nervous and most importantly like I was finally doing something I had always wanted to do.
Yea it’s true, I have ridden several waves in my day. From the tiny fresh water breaks at Wasaga Beach in Canada to the shark riddled Daytona Beach waves on boogie boards and finally body surfing Huntington Beach and Waimea Bays shore breaks. All when I was much younger and much more fit!!! Things are much different now.
Walking from the ferry to the meeting spot, the heat, my knee, my excess weight all contributed to my having a more difficult time than I even imagined. The nervousness I experienced gave way to despair as I wondered if I would make it to the lesson!
Inside was the 10 year old Sam. Brazen, fearless but not reckless, ready for any challenge. This was step number one on the road to my best life ever exploring Sam sized beach breaks! While my inner child was alive with adrenaline, my 54 year old self was mustering up every ounce of energy to push through. There were great feelings of failure, embarrassment, and hopelessness. What was I thinking?
We arrived at the meeting spot and shortly the lessons were underway. First we learned the cardinal rules of surfing. 3 basic rules that covered respecting the ocean and others in the water, falling away from the board so it does not hit you and always watching where are going. Of course there are more rules a beginner surfer should know. There are plenty of lists online. View Surf Rules for Beginners
After stretching we practiced pop ups and then got in the water. Wow. first I realized my front foot was my left and not my right as on a skateboard. It’s like playing hockey all over again. I shot left!! I struggled getting my knees to move fluidly, this was on shore. In the water I did not try to get up. Instead it was like riding giant boogie boards. I did not even try and every walk out was taking the last of the little energy I had left. Remember it is important to respect the ocean and the waves.
The two waves I rode boogie board style filled me with a familiar feeling. The rush of catching a wave and letting it propel you through the water towards shore. Suddenly I forgot how much pain I was in, how the trek back to Isla Mujeres would feel after. At the end of that second ride I stopped the lesson and let them help my ex who was having more success then I. She of course was in much leaner healthier shape!
Will there be a second lesson? Of course there will. In fact the intention is to take 5 more there in Cancun. However, first there is some training to do! Some that has begun, but more that starts immediately. Through a series of rabbit hole researching I have isolated the muscle groups and exercises required to perform the motions required to pop up and ride the wave. More on this in a future post.
For now know this, as difficult as that first lesson proved to be, it was a learning experience. There is an abundance of gratitude that I feel for the opportunity. My desire for better health and my Bucketlist adventure got me to try and appetite the company who came along!!! The experience.
Patience outshined the pain by a long shot. In fact am now even more inspired to be healthier!!! Thank you so much to the team at Highlife Mexico and watch for 5 lessons next.
